Almost time to go...but not quiteI came down to
Kombo last week for our group's Close of Service (COS) conference. It was exciting but exhausting, especially since I didn't get here until 10:30pm on Wed. night after a 15-hour travel day. Ugh. Here's the (shortened) story behind that:
I woke up at the crack of dawn last Wed. morning, and left
Karantaba in a
gelegele to
Bushtown (about 30k from me, across the river from
Bansang) since there weren't any direct
geles down to
Kombo. Crossed the river to
Bansang and got in a
gele to
Barra (the ferry port town across the river from Banjul), after waiting about an hour for it to fill up with passengers while I ate an "
omlette" (fried egg and onion) sandwich. Once the
gele was full, we started heading west towards
Janjanbure (the island in the middle of the country where you have to cross the river twice) but went about 10k and just picked up
someone's sack of peanuts and turned around. Back to
Bansang, because the
Jjbre ferry was broken, so the driver said.
So we backtracked to
Bansang and crossed the river again to
Bushtown, to take the
northbank road to
Barra. (Take a look at a map of the Gambia if you're confused. ) After driving about 2km on the bumpy, unpaved road from
Bushtown (which I had just traveled on from
Karantaba), our driver hit a dip, there was a loud bang, and then he started to veer off the road! As soon as the care moved over to the left (where there's an incline which would cause an overloaded van to tip over) and the car began to lurch, everyone inside immediately realized what was going on and leaned over to the right. It's about the closest I've ever come to tipping over in a vehicle other than a sled. The driver stopped and we all hurriedly jumped out of the
gele.
This was around 12pm. I'd already been traveling four hours and was less than 30k from home. And that loud bang we heard appeared to be the reason why the car wouldn't go any further. The driver and
apparante began looking underneath the car and trying to fix it, but no luck so he called another driver to come pick us up. So we waited...and waited...on the side of the road for more than 3 hours for the other
gele to show up. One guy from
Karantaba who lives in Barcelona and was just visiting pointed out that human beings are very funny; 10 minutes ago we
could've died, and now people are complaining that they're hungry. Humans are funny, indeed, I agreed. At one point I just laid down on a bench-seat inside the
gele and waited, but was startled by a few people on a
horsecart who accidentally rammed into the door of our parked vehicle. Perhaps today just isn't a lucky travel day, I thought.
By this time I was getting a little worried that I wouldn't be able to make it to the conference on time. A few other passengers walked or took a
horsecart back to
Bushtown to try to find another ride. One old
Mandinka guy was reprimanding the driver and then stormed off, only to come back to everyone laughing at him when the second
gele finally arrived.
Back on the road, on the north bank of the river to
Barra, where we'd have to cross again to Banjul. As we were passing one village I was practically asleep but awoke to another loud smash, this time because the (second) driver hit a cow right in the head! He was probably going 40
kmph at least. We looked back and saw the poor soul laying on the road behind us. The driver pulled over about a hundred yards ahead, as people from shops along the roadside came out to look. I thought he was going to pay the owner of the cow or that a big argument would ensue, but no. We drove off. I asked the guy next to me in
Wolof whether the driver shouldn't pay the guy. He said nope, the drivers pay to travel on the road but
shepards don't.
Fii Africa la, he said. Here is Africa.
Dega la, I replied. It's true.
Now we passed
Farafenni and were actually making decent time on our way to
Barra. But unfortunately it started getting dark, and coincidentally when the driver turned on the headlights it looked like he only had parking lights. You could barely see 10 meters in front of us! It took us almost 2 hours to go the last 50km of the trip, as the driver and those of us in front (I was sitting right behind
him) strained our eyes to see the road and whoever might be crossing it.
We made it in time to catch what might have been the last ferry that evening. I said "
bisimilai" (in the name of God) when I stepped onto it (as people here normally do while getting in a vehicle or embarking on a journey), just in case. It was that kind of day. The ferry ride which is about 45
mins was uneventful...until, that is, we got to the other side of the river (Banjul) and there was another ferry loading up at the dock. Our ferry got so close that it bumped into the side of the other ferry. It didn't seem like a big deal though, no alarms or anything. But as we were up against it, some people started hopping from our ferry to the other ferry to get onto the dock earlier. Crazy. But then we backed away, the other ferry left and ours docked. Another 10 minute
gele ride and a 5 min taxi ride was all it took to get home from there. I was exhausted, but also thanking my lucky stars to have made it alive.
COS ConferenceI got in late Wed. night and had to be up around 7am the next morning for the conference. We all went over to Safari Garden, a nice little hotel where we stayed for 3 days. The conference was definitely worthwhile. We covered a lot, from how to wrap things up here to how to talk to people back home about our experience here to a long group evaluation of Peace Corps and our work here. It was productive. We also presented our findings, which I believe were well received, to our country director and the assistant directors during a long discussion the last day.
As with many tranisitional periods in life, I'm sad about leaving but excited about the future. Who knows what's in store?
The fact that I just finished my COS conference means that it's almost time to come home! I'm excited about that, but I decided to extend till June (rather than leaving by our official date, April 15) for a few reasons. I'd like to spend more time with my family and folks in
Karantaba and savor it before I leave. You know how I like to take my time with things. Plus I'm going to do a little more work with the Red Cross/Peer Health Group at the school, even though the teachers I've been trying to work with make it frustrating. And of course staying till June also means I'll be around for another mango season! Or part of it at least. Believe it or not, that weighed pretty heavily in the balance. Oh, this also means I'll get to take some unused vacation days perhaps to go to Guinea; if I didn't extend I wouldn't be able to use them b/c you can't travel within your last 3 months.
So anyway, I'll be home sometime between June and July,
inshallah. I want to travel a bit on my way home too: a college friend in Madrid, an old
MPP coworker who's now a
PCV in Morocco, and these Dutch girls who I randomly met here and came to visit my village last July (I just got an amazing package from them and an invitation to stay in Amsterdam!). Feel free to meet me in Europe, or come visit here before I go! Seriously!
Visit
http://courtinthegambia.blogspot.com/ to see a picture of all of us at the COS conference.
Got my language score the other day...
and I'm practically floating! I took the test on Monday for each of the 3 languages: Wolof, Mandinka, and Pulaar. And guess what? I scored SUPERIOR in Wolof!!! That's pretty much the highest score you can get, which indicates that you speak the language like a native speaker (or even better than some). I'm not sure I'm that good (I'm still learning new words or phrases just about everyday), but apparently Sarjo (our tester) thinks so. He said I do in fact speak better than some Wolofs. I haven't told too many people about it b/c I don't wanna brag but I'm pretty ecstatic. Learning a language and living in another culture were some of my primary reasons for joining the Peace Corps.
I also received a score of Intermediate-Mid in Mandinka, and Novice-Mid in Pulaar, which I really wasn't expecting. I just tested in those for the hell of it, knowing that I could speak at least a little and figuring even Novice-Low in either would be nice; you get official certificates for each. I suppose this means I'm officially multi-lingual;~) It's been a goal of mine for a long time, so I feel very satisfied. But I'm not stopping here!
I'm also happy about it because it'll look nice on the old resume, and especially if I want to apply for grants (like a FLAS grant) to learn other languages. I should be a good candidate for something like that. I'm definitely gonna look into it. We learned about it during the COS conference last week and it sounds like a pretty good deal...get paid to learn a language as part of a grad school program and possibly travel to the country and work on a project there. Could be a worthwhile thing to do in conjunction with a Social Work degree, no?
Gotta go. I'm going back to Karantaba for a few days and then to Dakar next weekend for WAIST (West African Invitational Softball Tournament, where PCVs, embassy folks, and others from the whole region go to play and enjoy). I'm psyched because I've never been to Dakar and I'm looking forward to using my rockin' Wolof skills ;~p and seeing some live Jazz and/or Ndaga/Mbalax music.
But first, here's a picture I don't think I've posted before, of me and a Kora player (I think his name is Basiru Jobate) jammin' on the bus sometime last year. There's a story behind every picture, of course, but no time to tell this one right now.
Jama to your mama;~)
adam